I took a trip to Helmsdale last weekend and as I was driving up Berriedale Braes, somewhat slowly, as I was stuck behind a lorry hauling logs, I started to think about the to-ing and fro-ing that occurs to and from Caithness. In particular, how that movement has always existed and still does today, whether in the form of produce or people.
Last month I wrote about Stroma , and how it now sits, all but abandoned in the Firth, but what I am since discovering as I read more about this magical little isle, is where people went to after they left; Canada, America, other parts of Scotland and England, for example. So we have a whole island of people migrating somewhere, but just what piece of Stroma did they take with them? Which part of the island lingers in their hearts and is dispersed through their lineage into other cultures? It’s not just Stroma of course, but other Caithness families and individuals who leave. How many Gunns and Sinclairs are scattered around the world, each having a fragment of Caithness within them?
Then we have the people coming in, for many different reasons. In the late 1700s the Highland Clearances led to an influx of Sutherland people, driven from their homes to endeavour to make a living in the fishing industry, the burgeoning stone industry and on the profitable farming estates. And now we have the names Sutherland and Mackay, very much an inherent, established and integrated name in the area.
Thinking in more current times, we look at the influx of people that Dounreay created in the 1950s and the impact it has had on our culture, in terms of families that came initially for the work, but who are now established in the area. Not to mention in-coming artists, attracted by the scenery, but smitten with the land and the people. (Yes, that is me!) ; each in turn bringing a piece of their culture and identity with them.
If we are thinking about the coming and going to and from the county, we should look at the produce. Castlehill Heritage Centre is a good place to start. In there you will find maps and information boards explaining just how prolific the Caithness Stone industry was in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Caithness flagstone has made its way to places in like Sydney, Bombay and numerous places in the United Kingdom. That’s a lot of movement! Even the concourse around the Cutty Sark in London is Caithness Slab. I was walking on Caithness Stone before I ever set foot in the county! James Traill, the enterprising gentleman who established the commercial quarry at Castletown wasn’t only exporting the valued slab out of the county, but on each return journey he would ensure each ship was laden with precious cargo that people in Caithness required, like lime for new buildings. Win, win!
And other produce that is finding its way out of the county? How many far flung places have a prized bottle of Old Pulteney gracing their shelves? Who is tucking into some finest Mey Selections food? Who is devouring some Caithness Chocolate? Who has read or is reading Neil Gunns’ ‘Highland River’? Who is listening to some Neon Waltz? Who has a painting or photograph of Caithness created by a local artist on their wall? I could go on, the list is endless.
And what about the influx of tourists in the spring/summer? After attending a World Host course last week, I am reminded that it is not necessarily a product that visitors to our county leave with, but an experience. We were learning how it is essential to give our visitors a friendly welcome and provide them with a pleasant visiting experience. They don’t have to leave with anything other than a smile and reflection on the warm reception that they received whilst they were here. We want people to be raving about this place and wanting to return, not just for the scenery or the produce but for the encounter.
So next time you descend the Braes towards Helmsdale, think what piece of Caithness you are taking with you, and when you ascend, back towards Dunbeath, savour what piece you are returning to.
I am pleased to announce that my next Open Studio Day is on Saturday 22nd Novermber 2014. 12 – 5pm. You’ll be able to purchase art, jewellery and chocolate, take in the beautiful views whilst enjoying free mulled wine and mince pies! All are welcome 
Come find me at 26 Broadhaven Road, Wick.